La Paz’s Umbrella Street (La Calle de Los Paraguas)

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Linares Street in La Paz, better known as La Calle de Los Paraguas (Umbrella Street)

photography by: Omri Westmark

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Across the globe, umbrella-lined streets have become a trendy attraction in heavily touristed areas, often looking strikingly similar. But in La Paz, one historic alley has taken a distinct turn. As part of a citywide revitalization effort, a local wool shop has hung dozens of umbrellas above the street, each intricately designed with indigenous Bolivian art, turning the passageway into an open-air gallery.

Nestled in the historic heart of the Bolivian capital, the San Sebastián neighborhood offers a glimpse into the city’s storied past. One of La Paz’s oldest districts, its streets maintain much of their original layout, lined with colonial-era buildings standing alongside republican-era architecture.

 

The neighborhood is famously home to the Witches’ Market, where vendors sell ritualistic items, medicinal herbs, and amulets said to bring luck or love. As a tourist hub, the area attracts swarms of visitors who gawk at the ornate façades and look for artisanal goods in its many small shops.

 

Within this historic enclave lies Linares Street, a predominantly pedestrian pathway known for its craft markets, hostels, and cafés. Like the rest of the neighborhood, the street is a focal point for travelers looking to purchase handmade textiles, jewelry, and musical instruments.

 

Despite the incessant influx of tourists, the street retains much of its distinct character, shaped by centuries of organic development. While its reputation as a shopping destination remains strong, a recent urban initiative has imbued the street with even more vibrancy.

 

In 2021, Mayor Iván Arias commissioned an urban revitalization project aimed at enhancing public spaces and stimulating local businesses. A local alpaca wool clothing store named “L.A.M.” took the first step by hanging over 70 colorful umbrellas above the street, an eye-catching display that quickly captured public attention.

 

The concept resonated with the community, and soon, the municipal government expanded its efforts, enlisting more business owners and residents to contribute to the area’s aesthetic transformation.

 

Following this facelift, the wave of urban creativity extended beyond just umbrellas. Nearby streets now feature murals, traditional motifs, and art installations showcasing Andean culture. One particular wall is adorned with an expansive painting of condor wings, where visitors frequently pose for photos.

 

Although the street’s revitalization took place just a few years ago, some umbrellas are already showing signs of wear and tear. Even so, as the project evolved, the city reinforced the infrastructure in the area, improving lighting and security to better accommodate the growing number of visitors.

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photography by: Omri Westmark

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photography by: Omri Westmark